Pompeii
is a wonderful place to visit, a kind of dream trip especially
when combined with other destinations in Italy. The key is to
spend at least one full day at Pompeii, which means that you
should plan on spending the night in the vicinity.
If
you wish to stay in modern Pompeii, there is only one hotel to
consider: Hotel Amleto
(on a side street near the Porta di Nocera entrance). Typically
Italian with its tiled rooms and wonderful breakfast (would you
believe Nutella-filled croissants?) and a small roof-top
terrace, this is no cookie-cutter Holiday Inn. It also has a
private garage (parking is included in the room rate). And the
staff, including Marika and Antonio, is first-rate. I highly
recommend it, having stayed there some five times myself.
You can also stay in
Naples or Sorrento. Both Sorrento and Naples are appealing
bases. Sorrento is somewhat quieter and more sedate; Naples is
bustling and lively. In both cases, you can either drive to
Pompeii and park (there are many parking lots across from the
main entrance for about 5 euros a day, plus at least two
cameo factory outlets). On the other hand, it is very easy to
hop on the Circumvesuviana train to get there. There are two
Circumvesuviana stations in Pompeii, each serving a different
line of the train:
If you come to
Pompeii from Sorrento (or if you take the Sorrento line from
Naples), your stop will be the Villa of the Mysteries station
(Pompeii Scavi), which is directly across the street from
Porta Marina, the main tourist entrance to the archaeological
site.
If you come
from Naples on the Poggiomarino line, your stop will be the
Pompeii City station, which is located more in the center of
the town (and much closer to the Hotel Amleto). In this case,
you will walk straight out of the train station until you
reach the cathedral square (you can't miss the imposing
spire). Then turn right and walk along the main street until
you reach the Piazza Anfiteatro, a much quieter entrance to
the ruins (my preference). If you are at this entrance when
the ruins open, you can avoid the crowds for an hour or so as
you explore the eastern ruins.
Train fares are low
and very reasonable (for example a daily ticket from Naples to
Pompeii costs about €4.50 and includes unlimited metro rides
as well).
