Where
was Ötzi on the last day of his life?
Twelve
hours before he died, scientists believe that Ötzi sipped some water
from a mountain stream in the vicinity of Katharinaberg
(or Monte S. Caterina; most towns in northern Italy have dual names),
a small village overlooking the Schnalstal Valley in northern
Italy.
The water
contained a small bit of pollen from the hop hornbeam. This plant did
not grow to the north; it came only from the area around Katharinaberg.
The Iceman may have also eaten a meal of ibex (wild goat) here. When
scientists studied his intestines, they found the remnants of his last
meals which gave them information about where he spent his final
hours.
In
December 2001, I had the opportunity to retrace part of Ötzi's
final route. This was not the ideal time of year to see where he
trekked to his death 
(I wasn't able to visit the area in July), and I
wasn't able to go mountain-climbing. But I was able to get a sense of
the terrain and the isolation even in our modern times.
I
drove from Bolzano to Vernagt, a hamlet at the end of the Schnalstal
Valley. Don't miss the turn off (which is easy to do). The road is
narrow, winding, and steep.
|
First
stop: Katharinaberg |
It is in
the area of this tiny village (now perhaps fifty
houses, a few shops, and a church perched high on a promontory
overlooking the Schnalstal)
that Ötzi began his last day. Scientists were able to
determine this only after a great deal of detective work. They ,
researchers were able to study the food remains
in Ötzi's colon and identify certain substances, including the
pollen. They also found some remnants of bread and meat. The pollen
led them to Katharinaberg.
These days Katharinaberg is simply breathtaking, so perilously perched
on its mountain home. The day I visited (a Saturday
morning in early December, 2001) everything was quiet. The
temperature was cold, the air crisp; snow was forecast.
As
I walked through the village that day, it was hard not to wonder
about Ötzi. What did the area looked like so long ago? Was there even
a village?
Where was
the stream from which he drank? Was he chased from this area? Did he
simply travel through? Or was this his home?
Did he suspect that he
might be in trouble? Or had trouble come later--unexpectedly?
With
snow threatening, I hurried north and left Katharinaberg behind.
Although the Schnalstal Valley isn't lengthy, the twists and winds and
grades in the road meant a much more time-consuming trip than I had
planned. The
deserted road climbed north to Vernagt; snow started falling. I wasn't
certain what I would find at the end. I just didn't want to get
stranded in a alpine snowstorm (for which I hadn't prepared).
At
Vernagt, the wind whipped the snow wildly across the road. I pulled
into an empty parking area and took in the view.
In front
of me, to the west was Vernagt Lake, To my right (the north) was the
route that Ötzi took...up the
mountain to an area that is now called the Tisenjoch
Pass
The snow
blew harder. I got out of the car and walked along the western edge of
the lake and took some photos.
It would
have taken the better part of a day (and summer weather at that) for
me to climb to Ötzi's findspot,
and only with an expert guide.
This is not a casual hike in a state park.
Although it is not possible
to precisely locate the area on this photo, I have placed a
star in
the general direction in which he was found (based on my own
interpretation of the various maps of his discovery; his findspot is
not visible on this photo at all). Remember: even the Italians and
Austrians couldn't agree at first which country could claim him
because of the mountainous geography, so my marker is only for general
guidance. Somewhere on his climb up the mountain, he ate another meal
of red deer meat and grains.
Because
I could not get to the Tisonjoch pass that day, I returned to the
Schnalstal Valley some five years later. This time, I drove past Vernagt
a few more miles to Maso Corto (also called Kurzras), a small ski
resort at the very end of the road.
Maso Corto has hotels,
restaurants, and a few
shops--almost all with Ötzi overtones. A small
commercial center has an Ötzi shop, and a concession stand at the
foot of the ski lift sells Ötzi tea (which it advertises on its
window) for about $2.40 a cup. A cable car at the base of
the mountain takes visitors and skiers up to the glacier where breathtaking
views await. When you exit the cable car station on the mountain top,
look at the nearest peak. Beyond it, perhaps a little over a mile, is
the area where the Iceman was found, but you cannot hike there from
this location.
Here is a photo of what
the area looks like in late March:
| If you are so inclined, you
can spend the night on the mountain above Maso Corto at the Berghotel
Grawand
to have first crack at the slopes in the morning. You can also visit
the Ötzi Show Gallery, a mini-museum about the Iceman, housed in the
basement of the hotel. |
|
|
A final note: Cable car
riders include a few sightseers and mostly skiers, loaded with
equipment. The ride to the top is short and smooth, but a quick look
around the inside of the cab reveals why the trip is so safe. The car
has been safe-guarded by rosary beads hanging from one of the
levers.
|
|
For detailed
maps of the findspot (as posted by Vienna University of
Technology in Austria), click here.
|
|
TRAVEL
DIRECTIONS: If you want to visit Ötzi's findspot, buy two
good maps (one for driving, one for hiking).
From Bolzano, you will take Highway 38 (Merano). Approximately 13 km
past Merano, you will find the Schnalstal turn-off. This tiny road
passes an exit to Katharinaberg and meanders its way to Vernagt and
beyond to Maso Corto.
There, you will find provisions and lodging.
